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Articles Written by: JOHN BROENING
"Please don't call it 'fish-flavored mashed potatoes,'" I asked my wait staff the last time I put brandade on the menu. Brandade, or brandade de morue as it's formally known, can be a hard sell in this country. A Mediterranean dish made with ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
2 Feb 2010
According to Wikipedia, the word scone may come from the Middle Dutch word for "fine white bread." Given all the dense, dry, indigestible scones I've tasted in this country, the word scone might as well come from the Middle Dutch for "rock."
My wife ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
26 Jan 2010
There are a few cuts of meat that perform a double duty: that is, they can be quick-cooked, sauteed or grilled, or they can be slow-cooked. Chuck, of course, is one of them. Ground, it makes the ideal hamburger. Braised, it makes the ideal pot ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
19 Jan 2010
An inviting trail of caramel lead right to your ice cream ( | Thomas M Perkins)
To paraphrase the late author Clifton Fadiman, caramel is sugar's leap toward immortality. A good caramel is unbeatable — it has a glossy appearance, a silken mouthfeel and ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
12 Jan 2010
Sibel.
stalks Fusun; he haunts their old apartment; then he regularly visits the now-married Fusun and her aspiring screenwriter husband under the guise of financing a movie that would make Fusun a star.
Istanbul in ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
8 Jan 2010
Chocolate connoisseurs are like coffee connoisseurs — they prefer their product pure and bitter. Dolfin, my favorite chocolatier, manufactures some terrific bitter chocolate, including one with a staggeringly high 88 percent cocoa solids.
Once you move ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
5 Jan 2010
I once worked in a high-end restaurant where part of my job was to prepare the caviar service. I minced onions, sieved eggs, drained capers, chopped chives, griddled miniature blinis, and polished mother-of-pearl spoons and arranged them in their ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
29 Dec 2009
How do you develop the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity in a tomato sauce — enough natural sweetness to make the sauce pleasant to eat, enough tartness to make its flavor pop in your mouth? Traditionally, the solutions have included using ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
23 Dec 2009
Is chicken stock or water better for making soups? For most chefs, chicken stock in particular adds a velvety mouth feel and an intensity to soup that's absent when you use water. Water has its adherents as well: my mother always makes her leek and ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
15 Dec 2009
"What are you, crazy?" my wife said when I told her I was bringing escabeche to a Thanksgiving potluck dinner. After all, if there's anything that doesn't scream Traditional Thanksgiving, it's this dish of chilled pickled vegetables with ...
From JOHN BROENING,
Denver Post,
8 Dec 2009
